The best time to plant trees …

There’s no time like the present if you want to get your trees planted ready for next year – the best time for tree planting is between October and April.

Although it’s true that container-grown plants can be successfully planted at any time of the year, it’s easier to look after them if you plant in autumn or winter, as they will need less watering than if you wait until spring or summer.

If you want to plant root balled trees and shrubs you’ll probably find they are only available this time of year – plant them as soon as you get them home for the best results, or if that’s not an option you can try temporarily planting them in the soil so that the roots don’t dry out, but aim to get them properly planted as soon as you can.

How to plant trees and large shrubs

Plants need the right amount of air and nutrient, and to be in soil that has the right amount of moisture for optimum growth.  Preparing the soil before you plant will help to get the very best from your new shrubs and trees.

Loosen the soil so that it’s not compacted, and to improve the drainage, then add fertiliser and natural, organic matter to the soil to help the plants grow.

If the soil has a tendency to become waterlogged over the winter months, you could think about having proper drainage put into the garden, or a DIY alternative such as planting onto a slight slop if you have one. The optimum slope would be about 25-30cm high and 1 meter in diameter.

Planting Guide

First, take the plants out of their containers, and then spread the roots out so that you have an idea of their spread. Dig a hole that’s around up to three times the diameter of the root system, and no deeper than the roots.

•  Break the soil up with a fork if the sides or base of the planting hole are compacted.
•  Scrape away the top layers of compost for any container grown plants - the point where the roots flare out should be towards the top of the soil surface.
•  Place the plant in the hole, with a stake if required (top-heavy or larger trees should be staked.)
•  Refill the planting hole with soil between and around the roots, being careful to get rid of any pockets of air.
•  Firm the soil gently, but don’t compact it so much that it becomes a hard mass.

Your trees and shrubs are now ready for the spring, and just need to be watered – especially if it’s dryer than usual or very windy over the winter. Keep the area free from weeds, and add mulch if you feel that the area is beginning to dry out too much or to prevent weed regrowth.

Weed control in the garden

Weeding takes up a lot of time in the average garden, and a bit like housework, it can seem like a pointless task because no sooner have you finished then you have to start all over again with new weeds popping up to taunt you.

There are ways to get the weed population under control though…

Let sleeping weeds lie

Your garden is chock full of weed seeds and there’s nothing you can sensibly do about it. Only the seeds in the top inch or two of soil will get enough light to germinate and start to make a nuisance of themselves, so only dig when you need to and once you’ve finished digging, add mulch to stop the onslaught.

De-weed your lawn by using a sharp knife with a narrow blade to slice dandelion roots and other pests; this severs their food source and saves the bother of digging them out.

Get Mulching

Mulch keeps the soil cool and moist, and stops light getting to weed seeds, so it’s an all-round good thing. Organic mulches are even better as they support insects that love to eat the weed seeds, thus giving you a natural and garden-friendly weed killer.

Weed at optimum times

Young weeds are easier to get rid of than established, older weeds, so get them while the conditions are good to stop them bedding in.  One good time to get your weeding gloves on is after a torrential rain session – it’s easier to wrench them out from the ground when it’s nice and damp.

When it’s dry, slice the weeds off just below the soil line and they will just shrivel up and die, especially if you use a sharp edged hoe to get at them.

Take off their heads

Chopping off weed heads is great for the garden, giving it short- and long-term benefits. It’s perfect for hardwired weeds that you can’t completely get at, and makes you feel better!

Cutting back the tops of perennial weeds slows down their reseeding, making them use up their food reserves, which stops them spreading all over your garden; for a while, anyway.

Don’t leave too much space

If you plant beds tightly together it reduces the chances of pesky weeds popping up, although they will still give it their best shot. The closer the plants you actually want to grow are to each other, the more shade there is and the less sunlight to get to weed seeds.

How to use decking

Decking is ubiquitous in any garden these days; it’s the modern answer to getting a bit more living space outside – or just not having to mow so much lawn! There are so many ways you can brighten up your garden with well-chosen decking; we’ve got a few for you to think about here.

Eating out is always popular at this time of year, and where better to have a cosy, relaxed meal than in your own garden? If you convert an area outside into a covered decking space you can make the most of the fresh air at any time of the year, and adding statement furniture gives your outdoor dining area a personal touch.

When it comes to decking there are so many options that you’ll be sure to find something that suits your lifestyle, budget and taste. If you need advice on what decking suits your needs and your particular garden, ask the experts at John Lessels Landscaping for expert help. With different types of decking that feature different patterns, wood stains and even eco-friendly options, the time for decking has never been better.

Casual garden dining

The perfect way to spend time in the garden, your decking area can be transformed into an outdoor entertainment space to create an outdoor eating area that can be used for entertaining or just relaxing with a cool drink in the summer. Add climbing plants to give the space a homely feel and you’ll want to spend as much time in your new outside café as possible.

Decking your garden paths

Who says that a garden path has to be made from stone? For a funky, modern look you can replace
the concrete with attractive wooden decking and give your garden a neat, sleek look that sets it
apart.

Covered garden area

Another way to make the most of al fresco dining, but turning the decked area into a covered  ‘extra room’ means that you get the benefit of your garden all year round. Perfect for giving you another option for dining that can be used in summer and cooler times, and you can add outdoor heaters if you start to really enjoy fresh air eating.

Indoor-outdoor living

Create the illusion of extra space by tagging decking onto a dining room or living area that leads out
onto decking and a patio.  This makes the room look like one big space when patio doors are pulled
back and creates a lovely focal point for entertaining and relaxed living.

You could also add some platforms at different heights on larger decking areas to mark out the
lounging and eating areas.

For more ideas, talk to the experts at John Lessels…

Gardening with Containers

Containers are a very versatile way of brightening up a garden or getting some growing done in a smaller garden. Perfect for growing herbs or flowers, they are a pretty addition to a garden; but they aren’t as easy to maintain as you might think as growing in a container can be hard on the plants – they need a little extra TLC to thrive.

The container is a space-saving way to grow shrubs, climbers, herbaceous perennials, fruit and vegetables, and with careful attention you can even successfully grow some roses in a container too.

Top tips for planting in containers

Most types of plant will respond well to being
planted between early spring and autumn; permanent plants do best when planted in early spring. Delicate plants are best left until after the last frost of winter – May is usually a good bet. If you’re planting to brighten up the garden in winter, though, opt for late summer or early autumn.

Choose your container

If you’re planning to leave your plants outside all year round, plant them in a frost-proof terracotta container – not just frost-resistant. Some frost resistant pots can crack when the temperatures drop. Find a container that’s big enough for the roots, but at the same time avoid putting a plant with a smaller root ball into a big container as they tend to become waterlogged when composted. Just increase the size of the pot if you feel it’s getting too big. You can also avoid waterlogging by putting the container up onto small blocks or bricks.

Planting your containers

Put your choice of drainage material at the bottom of the container, and then fill the rest of the pot with compost, just leaving enough room to arrange the plants on the top.

Take the plants out of their pots, gently tease out the roots and add a bit more compost to the root balls. Add the plants to the container, making sure that the root ball is level with them with the top of the compost. Once they are in place, firm up the soil around them and water well.

Always keep a gap of about an inch (2.5cm) between the top of the soil and the top of the container, so that the water can soak in properly.

Maintenance

Start feeding the plants around four to six weeks after planting (unless you’ve opted for compost with a slow-release fertiliser included.) Carry on throughout April – September with a general purpose feed, but stop over the winter months as it’s not necessary.

To make sure that the compost doesn’t dry out, check it every day and water regularly between April and September. If the weather is warm, you might have to water twice daily. Make sure that you dead head flowers regularly to encourage growth of new ones.Following these tips should give you baskets, tubs and containers to be proud of.

Re-pot in early spring. For permanent displays, repotting is needed at least every two to four years to prevent problems with drying out and waterlogging. In between, top dressing (scraping off the old compost from the top of the container and replacing with new) is useful

Reduce watering during winter months

Ideally, prevent the compost from freezing by moving containers under cover or covering them in bubble-wrap. In very wet periods, move pots under cover to prevent the compost becoming sodden.

There’s something a little bit special about growing your own fruit. It always seems to taste better somehow, and there’s no great secret to it; growing fruit in your garden is all about finding the right spot and carefully nurturing the plants until they reward you with juicy berries. If you already have a vegetable patch you could allocate a small area to growing some strawberries, or even make them a feature of an ornamental garden.

You’ll find that a lot of fruit trees grow well against a south-facing wall and with a bit of patience you can even train them to grow into various shapes.

Strawberries

You’ll get the best results from growing strawberries if you replace your plants every three years, and always plant new crops in late summer/early autumn. When you replace your plants, don’t plant the new one in exactly the same place, and always plant strawberries in a warm sunny spot with well-drained soil.

Water your strawberries regularly and put strawberry mats or just soil underneath to protect them. You might also need to cover them with netting as they start to appear, unless you want eagle eye garden birds to pinch all the best ones...

 

 

Raspberries

Home grown raspberries are absolutely divine and well worth trying to for yourself. You can go for summer fruiting types which give a short sharp crop all at once, or the longer-lasting autumn fruiting varieties which keep going from high summer until it starts getting colder.

To grow the perfect raspberry you’ll need to find a sunny but sheltered spot in the garden in well-drained soil. Plant dormant raspberry canes in autumn or early winter at the very latest and cut them down to about six inches (15cm) as this will help to create a good root system. Tie them to a support so that they are nice and stable.

Raspberry canes need pruning back in late winter; cut them back down to ground level.

Currants

Black, red, and white currants all fruit in mid-summer. To get the best results you’ll need to plant them in late autumn into a rich soil – if your soil is acidic you’ll need to add lime to it for a decent crop. Once you’ve planted the bushes, prune the branches right back to the lowest bud – this encourages growth.

Protect your currants from spring frosts and also in windy conditions as they can be a little bit delicate. In spring, add a potassium and nitrogen rich fertiliser to boost growth.

With a little planning, you’ll soon be able to sit back and enjoy your summer fruits!

They all need regular pruning to keep fruit yields high. With mature bushes, prune out about a third of it each year. Cut out the oldest wood so that it encourages new vigour resulting in strong new growth which carries fruit the following year.

Synthetic turf – it’s come a long way!

Since it was first used back in the sixties, artificial turf has certainly changed a lot. Technology has made it possible – and desirable - to create good quality, durable artificial grass that looks and feels just like the real thing; with the added benefit of needing no watering and very little maintenance. It’s not just gardeners who are turning to artificial turf for their landscaping either; many athletes now prefer it to the real thing and say it gives a better playing surface than natural grass.

With frequent hosepipe bans a feature of the great British Summer, having an artificial lawn can be a bonus. The trend for no-water grass has been taking off globally, and is expected to continue as people become more aware of conserving water and not wasting resources. Just one square foot of natural grass replaced with turf can save more than 50 gallons of water per year, according to estimates.  A good quality turf can also last from 15-20 years, another factor that works in its favour. Synthetic grass fibres used to only be available in two types; monofilaments or slit-film tape.

Monofilaments are single strands while slit-film fibres are cut from sheets of polymers to a fixed width. This gave it the feel and look of a nylon carpet which was why it wasn’t quite so popular in the mid-twentieth century! These days, artificial turf is crafted from softer polyethylene fibres which make it a much nicer product, suitable for general use in landscaping and sport/play.

The business is growing fast, too, so expect to see more synthetic turf in the future.  Figures from the US alone suggest that in 2014 the synthetic turf industry was worth $1.1 billion with a projected annual revenue growth from 2015-2017 of 13.1 percent, and the demand for synthetic turf is on the increase everywhere, with Europe being one of the biggest markets.

When you’re looking for good quality artificial turf for sporting  surfaces, project, check that your supplier is a member of the Sports and Play Construction Association, SAPCA, is the trade organisation for the UK sports facility construction industry, and high standards in design and construction of synthetic turf pitches. SAPCA members are responsible for most of the synthetic turf pitches laid in the UK, everywhere from parks, community clubs and schools, to professional clubs, and pitches for high-level national and international competition.

Playground and sports safety surfaces

Safety is at the front of everyone’s mind when designing a play area or a sports ground, but it’s also important to think about the look and design of any area before you decide what you’re going to use to surface it.

Adding a safer surface to play areas helps to avoid nasty injuries and cushions the impact of falls – which can’t ever be avoided! To meet the requirements of BS EN 1176 and BS EN 1177, it’s recommended that impact absorbing surfaces in play areas should be installed beneath all equipment that has a free height of fall greater than 0.6m.

All the different options for surfaces have different levels of safety, functional characteristics, maintenance requirements and of course cost. 

So, what are the different types of surfaces you might consider for a play or sports area?

 

 

 

Wet Pour

 This is a continuous, hard-wearing and slip-resistant rubber surface that gives a high quality finish and needs very little maintenance once it’s down.  Once the free height of fall has been worked out, the wet pour can be laid underneath any playground equipment to give a good impact absorber.Wet pour can be a very versatile type of surfacing as it’s available in a range of colours and can be adapted for sports surfaces and play areas, with logos, shapes and floor games like hopscotch easily added.

Loosefill

Loose-fill surfacing is also great for absorbing impact in play and sports facilities, and has the advantage of being easy to match with play units and equipment so that it gives a natural look too. It also costs less than tiling and wet-pour surfacing, but there’s more maintenance involved as it needs
topping up and regular raking.

Popular loosefill surfaces are recycled timber and bark, and sand is a traditional style loosefill option that’s still favoured by many play areas.

Tiles

Rubber and Matta tiles look great in play areas, and with some designs they can be adapted so that weeds are kept at bay and grass grows through the tile to keep the area looking natural.

Rubber tiles can give a finished surface with similar properties as wet pour, and are usually laid onto a concrete base. Rubber tiles are available in a range of colours for sport and play areas.

Matta tiles are an open mesh style tile which is made from pre-fabricated, interlocking recycled rubber & PVC tiles.

Bonded Rubber Mulch

This is a type of solid rubber shred which is made from recycled rubber and then coloured. The rubber shred is then bound with a specially formulated PU binder. Bonded rubber mulch is laid onto solid, compacted ground with a membrane and is designed to follow the contours of the existing surface, so is similar to wet pour but often works out as a more cost-effective option.

If you’re looking for advice on the best surfacing for your play area or sports ground, contact one of
our team.